2012年9月27日星期四

As far as it's known, to date there was only one confirmed account of a serious plan to solo the North Face

As far as it's known, to date there was only one confirmed account of a serious plan to solo the North Face.the north face 2in1 jacket Valeriy Khrishchatyi, distinguished and exceptionally strong (even according to Kazakhs’ high high-altitude climbing standards) had been preparing to solo the wall during the summer season of 1993. Unfortunately, Valeriy died on August 3, 1993, in a huge snow and ice avalanche while guiding clients on the normal route of Khan Tengri.It is difficult to say for sure, but it appears no foreign (i.e., from outside USSR/former-USSR countries) climbers ever summited Khan Tengri via the North Face direct line.As for the 2012 Kazakh expedition, evidently they used their well accounted experience of previous successful expeditions at this serious Wall.Accordingly, they did not make any “loud” announcements before their attempt. And they definitely did not the north face jackets for men say anything intriguing about the planned style, something like the now fashionable light and fast tactic. “We simply planned to climb the North Face directly in alpine style”, commented coach E. Iljinsky on their goals.Vaso Pivtsov, the leader of the team, formulated the target in semantically more complex message: "The aim was to make a line of ascent as close as possible to a directissima** following the logic of terrain and maximizing the beauty of the route".Given that several logical direct routes had already been climbed on the wall, the team could consider the previous experience and select what route/line (or combination of lines) to follow***. Or try a new line. Again - given present conditions on the wall.And conditions were definitely not favorable this season.the north face jackets on sale Says Alex Sofrygin:“The wall remained white the entire season, it never turned black, there was too much snow in the whole region. Two strong teams canceled their attempts due to excess snow at the south side of Pobeda, in the Khan Tengri region. Only four climbers summited Pobeda this season.""Even on the normal route from the north side of Khan Tengri, there were unusually few successful attempts. The weather was cold in general and there was lots of snow.”The climb as it was. The wall by sections, main difficulties and specifics.First, lower part: Ice and rockfalls (~4200 – ~5000)Alex Sofrygin: “Afternoon rock falls made the lower part [of the wall] so dangerous we felt like tiny turtles, trying to protect under backpacks and helmets. We were simply very, very lucky. It felt as if someone “very powerful”north face jackets sale was keeping fingers crossed for us. Because these falling rocks, they just could not miss us – so frequent and dense were they. Just simple luck is denied by the probability theory in this case”.Alex’ estimate is expressed in a more mathematical way: the density of rockfalls was so high that a probability to avoid a stone was close to zero.Such ominous description of the rockfall situation on the wall should not surprise. It is more common than rare that high rockfall danger significantly affects climbers' plans or progress - from changing the attempted route to aborting the entire expedition altogether.In their particular case, the Kazakhs changed their initial plan to climb the wall close to Studenin’s route due to very high rockfall danger at that route’s lower part. Instead they chose to start the climb via Myslovskiy’s line***.

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